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by Michael Greenow
When Sir Clough Williams-Ellis started building the picture-perfect village of Portmeirion in 1925, he hoped it would not onlygive pleasure during his life, but it would bring pleasure to others as well, writes Michael Greenow.
The village of Portmeirion is unique. Located on a peninsula off the coast of Snowdonia, Wales, there is no other place quite like it on the planet. The vision of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the architect, Portmeirion was built in the 1920s and 1930s to prove a point: if the architect had a feeling for landscape, he could fi nd a sympathetic setting for any sort of buildings within it.
Look across the estuary of the Afon Dwyryd to Portmeirion and you will see pastel pale buildings peeking out from the tree-clad slopes. A campanile, a dome, a Mediterranean fi sherman’s cottage and other romantic buildings all set in 70 acres of woodland and patches of exotic garden.
“An architect has strange pleasures,” Williams-Ellis wrote in 1924. “He will lie awake listening to the storm in the night and think how the rain is beating on his roofs, he will see the sun return and will think that it was for just such sunshine that his shadow-throwing mouldings were made.”
Sir Clough purchased the land for less than £5,000 and his work, which is constantly being tended and refurbished, has become one of Wales’ most popular tourist attractions - drawing a quarter of a million people annually. In fact, it has become a sizeable business bringing the area employment of some 200 people as well as adding revenues to the local tourism economy. The village was built in two phases, the fi rst was rustic Italian Arts and Crafts style, and the second more classical or Palladian in style, largely built from disparate features rescued from historical buildings to be found a sublime setting somewhere in Portmeirion. This use of salvaged buildings gave rise to Clough’s description ofthe place as “a home for fallen buildings.”
His last building, the tollgate, was built when he was 93. Portmeirion gave Clough pleasure during his life and he hoped that it would bring pleasure to others as well. His motto was “Cherish the Past, Adorn the Present, Construct for the Future.” He fought for beauty, “that strange necessity”.
Portmeirion was brought worldwide fame when the 1960s cult TV series, The Prisoner, which was filmed at the village. In fact, the thriving fan club of the series still holds annual reunions in the village and thousands more pay homage individually. Thousands of other visitors know of the Portmeirion pottery, which was first designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis’ daughter for sale in Portmeirion’s shops. It has now grown to become a worldwide brand. You will fi nd a shop selling Portmeirion pottery, and even offering closeouts and seconds.
CHERISH THE PAST, ADORN THE PRESENT, CONSTRUCT FOR THE FUTURE.
The architect’s nephew, Robin Llewelyn, was always aware that Sir Clough had always envisaged Castell Deudraeth playing a central role in the tourism that his creation would inevitably trigger. So it was with grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund, the European Regional Development Fund and the then Wales Tourist Board, that he was able provide that animated finish to the village. Castell Deudraeth, a high Victoria mansion and the largest building at Portmeirion, was transformed into a hotel and restaurant in 2001 - some 75 years after the village was first opened to the public gaze. The hotel provides 11 five-star suites, an 80-seat restaurant and a bar and has become a multi-award-winning venue that complements the village. You can also stay at the many cottages that provide self-catering accommodation or the other rooms in the village that are considered part of the main Hotel Portmeirion.
The Golden Dragon Bookshop, situated on the ground floor of Neptune cottage (built 1926, listed Grade II 1971), was one of Clough’s fi rst cottages at Portmeirion. The Golden Eagle sign was designed by Clough using one of the eagles from his Brondanw coat of arms that still hangs above the entrance to the shop. The name was later changied to the Golden Dragon Bookshop and there is now a golden wyvern or winged dragon in the window to justify the name.
The Italianate architecture now echoes to the sounds of the Welsh countryside and the names and signs in the village are in Welsh – and English just in case your Welsh still needs some practice! But however foreign is the feel of the village, there is no doubt that it is quite at home in its setting, perfectly proving the architect’s point. §
PORTMEIRION SIGHTS
Some of the sites and activities you can see and do while at Portmeirion
The Piazza – Built to replace an unsightly tennis court that had been there since the 1930s. There is a fountain pool, Gloriette, Gothic Pavilion and Burmese dancers on Ionic columns, which is one of Clough’s master pieces.
The Pantheon – The octagonal building surmounted by a dome and central octagonal cupola was built in the late 1950s because Clough felt the village suffered from ‘dome deficiency’ and decided to remedy this.
The Gardens - There are three main gardens. Since 1980, a major renovation programme has been begun, with much clearing, restructuring (especially the lakes, which have been re-dug and reshaped) and extensive replanting throughout the woods.
The Golden Dragon Bookshop - All available books by Clough Williams-Ellis and about his life and work are stocked here. There is also a good selection of Welsh and Celtic interest books.
Pot Jam Shop – Located on the ground fl oor of Trinity building, the Pot Jam stocks all the Portmeirion jams, preserves and other culinary items as well as Portmeirion own label chocolates and sweets. One the most popular items is the Portmeirion Champagne with its distinctive label based on a design by Clough Williams-Ellis.
The Dome Gallery - Features the Watercolours and Prints of Welsh artist Rob Piercy. Including images of Snowdonia and Portmeirion.
The Ship Shop – This shop has all the latest products from Portmeirion Potteries, which can arrange tax free overseas shipping outside the EU.
The Prisoner Shop – In 1966, the Round House was used as Number Six’s residence in The Prisoner. The interiors were fi lmed at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer studios, Borehamwood.
Hours/Tickets –
Opened every day 9.30am – 5.30pm.
It’s £6.00 for an adult day pass.
Website: www.portmeirion-village.com
PHOTO CREDITS
Photos 1-4: PAULEDWARDS; BRIDGETJONES @ DREAMSTIME.COM AND BRITAINONVIEW.COM
Photos 5-13: PAULEDWARDS @ DREAMSTIME.COM / MCCORMICK-MCADAM @ BRITAINONVIEW.COM
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